Milan menswear shows day I

CP Company

kicked off and eventually got round to what it does best. Serious jacket ideas in envelope stretching fabrics. 

Mr Rivetti was doing what he does best, talking passionately about clothes, and dropping a brawlers look fit for the terrace. Bravo.   (Carlo Rivetti, CP Company Capo)

 

                                                                                            Grande Cafe Tre Marie

We visit the elegant Grand Cafe Le Tre Marie (est 1953) for coffee and pastries. Note: Esther gets stopped everywhere we go to be photographed, an excellent calling card for The Rake, which she brandishes. 

            

 

                          

                    DOLCE &GABBANA 

At Dolce I found the macho fair on the money. Am re-embracing The Godfather II (the flash backs particularly) of recent and this knitwear and tailoring possessed a brooding, vintagesque stance functioning in mannish way.  Film ‘Baari’ by Giuseppe Tornatore used a mood enhancer, express train of vested models used as sales enhancer.

(Flash Back The Godfather II)

 

 

JIL SANDER

Liked Jil. Particularly 'Fosters Menswear' style fleck and shine suits and duvet style urban jackets: the perfect antidote to the aforementioned Moncler wet look epidemic.

 

 

 

TRUSSADI

                                                                                                                              Met Milan Vukmirovic in the lift at Trussadi and purloined him for interview. His pieces were covetable and masculine. Good stuff for future of mens do-able lux. The man talks pure sense, but worry about how much tartan men can take in London since the Shoreditch lot did check to death.   

Is this the dawn of Ditch-Luxe? See video.

 (Right: Trussadi 1911 new stance)

Emporio Armani’s under-pant procession made me miss my Burberry seat. 

 

Burberry

I craned a look from the back. Burberry was excellent. Mad looking WWII sheepskin flyers mutated Blade Runner style. Imposing greatcoats were perfect, commanding manly stature in current uncertain climes. Christopher smashed it again to a sound track of OMD, Ultravox and  Yazoo. Spine tingled sadly to Only You.

 

Later at Burberry dinner met the campaign teenagers, who resembled public school boarders escaped for the weekend.

Outside the Principe di Savoia Hotel I fed Matt Gilmore, Dave’s son, Cohiba. He wobbled gratifyingly.

The bar has been totally naused with a house DJ instead of tinkling piano, and flashy bar instead of fusty trad waiters. Its Beckham’s fault for hanging about in there. It’s his residence when playing for AC.

Final scores for masculinity: Strong outer wear, two. Gratuitous man underwear parades, nil.

 

Tom Stubbs

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