Tailoring has not been so significant in men's style since the Sixties and Seventies. Despite living in a dress-down, slouchy, scruffy world, a counter culture of smartening up and deploying  tailored structure is in action. Which is a good thing, obviously.

Gucci AW11/12.

Milan and Paris men's fashion weeks are about to start, the former on Saturday. For the past few years they have become, to a significant extent, a showcase of tailoring from various fashion houses coupled with an exercise in styling in the brand's handwriting. The message is that tailoring is utterly crucial to nearly all style engaged men. The big houses do not plan to miss out.

E.Tautz AW11/12.

The best tailors are having a smashing time of it. Confident, re-invigorated and enjoying a period of unparalleled buoyancy. Bravo the tailors. Am in physical support of many of them, (which shall bang on about, again, shortly).

This week I have launched an investigation into the state of tailoring for this coming Autumn Winter season. It's for something quite serious in the FT HTSI, and shall not reveal the actual thrust of it yet. However the research is proving double interesting already. I'm a disciple of the tailors, but have to say certain fashion houses are giving more than a good account of themselves. I am about to pitch fashion brands against the purest tailors and see how they all fare. Battle of the cutters, if you will.

Roland Mouret Mr. AW11/12

Spoke to Roland Mouret yesterday. His men's line, Mr., is excellent and uses tailoring very cleverly.  He is not without something to say on this matter.

Might file under a new STYLE&ERROR section to be entitled TAILOR-SCAPE. Might, I said.

For now, keeping it structured while flying between the metropoli,