STATE I : LANVIN
As I just proclaimed, us proper menswear style devotees are witnessing the 'Battle of the Cutters'. Really, we are. I intend to demonstrate. Lanvin are at the vanguard of fashion house tailoring, (click for AW11/12 mens show). This is the first 'State' Tailorscape post. "Men’s tailoring has for a long time been quite constricted; what I try to do is play around with cut and construction in order to ‘blur’ the boundaries between formal and sportswear, fashion forward and classic". Head of Lanvin menswear Lucas Ossendrjer.
Naturally, the fashion lot, have got their visuals down better than the tailors. The Parisian house Lanvin particularly so. There is a touch of The Man Who Fell To Earth stalking about in this collection, and it's not just the Fedoras.
Lanvin are testing the tailoring boundaries, pushing things hard and strong. Ossendrjver is using proper, fully canvased tailoring techniques, then subverting shapes in three different silhouettes. It's quite mental stuff, but very fanciable too for those who like to step out differently in their tailoring. (Inserting Lucas quote when I've had my breakfast. Really, I will).
L.O. "I experiment a lot with the shoulder lines and constructions. It actually requires a lot of research and experimentation to find technical solutions. I work closely with my tailor to get the construction that I want."
L.O. "What I like is that all these jackets are made in a traditional tailored way which makes them special and very precise. To get classical men’s tailors to try these silhouettes is not always easy. However, I love to work with their know-how and knowledge to push men’s fashion further. It is fashion that is easy to wear and comfortable." Thank you Mr.Ossendrjver.
No doubt Mr. Bryan Ferragamo is gonna wade in with his stoical style spite, but I say bring it, this stuff is pretty important right now. Forget the casting and styling, these tailored pieces are brilliant. They've changed evening wear and how it's worn. They're setting the standard for designer tailoring's directional thinking.