CHURCH I : RAKE
To redress the Tailorscape equilibrium I'd better post something on RAKE (click). It's been going for four or five seasons and is the concept of a fella called Clive Darby. He's got a wealth of menswear experience and worked with Kilgour for some years. Taking what he's learned about tailoring and the way men actually dress, particularly bods who travel, he produced brand that combines sharp, modern, British tailoring with ways of breaking and mixing jackets with other stuff, as well as wearing as full suits. The creative director Will is pretty damn clued-up on these matters too.
Rope shoulders with long-ish elegant jacket line is the signature RAKE look. Cut wise, the proportion evolved from where Kilgour left off in 2009 in its modern British feel. Details such as 'swelled' edges changes the accent of pieces particularly when teaming with non-matching jackets and trousers. These often run down a 'lap seam' (similar row of 1 cm stitching creating slight swell) down the outside seam of trousers, descended from a military detail. RAKE embraces the separates trend cunningly.
A round 'halo' button hole is a unique RAKE detail. Fabrics are lightweight, even tweedy numbers, as this gear is aimed at people who operate in multiple climes. Half-lined and un-lined, and gentle construction of shoulders stuff keep the build light. Its received a great deal of attention for this sort of dynamic, and sells in some very serious international retailers.
The RAKE take on modern double breasted is pretty special. I've used it on my clients and in editorial to great effect. Its has the feel of dignified DB but with only two buttons it looks lean and youthful. Nice work RAKE men.
RAKE does strong shirt lines and some very good outter-wear too. Visit the site for that, (click) as am keeping this post strictly structure. There is some excellent styling in the film they made. Their new made-to-measure service is excellent. Tried it on clients and its double good; you must trust me on this. If you're interested in this cut/look, try it.
In Spring Summer '12 comes RAKE Lounge. Its a dressier, evening collection with a higher price point. Its mental. I had to write about mainline first, now, as Lounge is the next level all together. My pal Stacey at Matches (click) agreed and bought the entire collection. (Thats how she rolls FYI).
Keep up with RAKE. They know what is going on.