CHURCH II : HARDY AMIES
I have the urge to redress the pure tailoring (Church) balance in TAILORSCAPE. This is Hardy Amies (click) AW11/12 collection as seen during LFW at Hardy's place at No. 14 Savile Row. It's always a pretty rarified affair in this palatial gaff. In front of the anointed fashion crowd, (still technically surfs), and a smattering of Royals, noble double-breasted action was exhibited, teamed with Polo-necks. A look I heartily approve of. In fact think I championed it actually.
"The jackets are fully canvased which creates a beautiful shape, but I was determined to get away from stiff cardboard tailoring and create a comfortable jacket that also gives you great shape" Creative Director Claire Malcolm told me. The shoulders are very strong indeed. Proper Brit-Suave.
"I started with a classic Savile Row hourglass shape, which is very sexy, but made the point of the shoulder a lot narrower which creates a far more modern silhouette and reduced the skirt, keeping a nipped-in waist which makes everyone look great. Hardy designed very much for the era in which he was living and I believe the House has to look forward and design for the stylish man of the 21st Century; fashion is not costume design!" Wise words Claire. Note the unusual contrast collar which is quite closed, one of Hardy's own personal style nuances, as was the narrow ties to go with.
Handsome peak lapels on the three piece here, perhaps little over fastened, but this is a fashion show, right Bryan? The show is styled by Bryan McMahon of Another Magazine, a proper trendy style merchant.
There were some separates styled in the show, but I found them a bit clunky so didn't put them up. The evening wear style was exemplary however.
Roll neck and satin under shawl. Like it.
Note. Hardy Amies is a couturier, and unlike on the rest of the Row, the workshop and studio are in the top of the building. Like an atelier in Paris. Another nice touch Hardy.