STATE II : GUCCI

Right then, attention toile haters and cutter fans alike, it's round II of STATE on TAILORSCAPE. (That means it's about a fashion house's take on tailoring, yeah?) Bryan F's on holiday in Cape Cod, so bring it, I'm feeling buoyant and Gucci's looking pretty, pretty cock sure of itself for AW 11/12 (click for whole show). That'll be the shoulders, not so much the 'Mutch' bags.

Designer Frida Gianni was packing for holiday when I asked her a few questions about her collection. She didn't get back. Hurt.  She said a couple of things in the press release though. “I have explored Gucci’s codes from many perspectives reintroducing elements from the DNA with the 70s and the spirit of dressing iconic men as a reference." For example. I read the whole press release. It made me dizzy with fashion nonsense and would be just too easy to terrorise, so I shan't. The collection is called the 'New Dandy'.

'Nouveau Seventies Dandy' might have been more accurate with those impudent rope shoulders, big bowed swooping lapels and kick flare pants. More than a little bit of Mick Jagger marrying Bianca in Nutter/Sexton about it. Not the colours though. The colours were all Gucci. Browns, bronze, midnight blues and blacks,  all sorts of rich, sumptuous lux-evening tones. "A nocturnal symphony glorified by rockmantic accents". Sorry, said wasn't gonna do that. Rockmantic? Oh go on then.

Anyway, the tailoring was strong if you ask me. A bold silhouetted double breasted showcase, nicely nipped in for ample swagger. Not too mental, but clearly non-worky, fancy sort of gear to drop as convincing posing garb. Need to be quite lean for this I hazard.

The models are brandishing man-clutches. AKA Mutches. This season's must have excuse to get your head stoved in by almost any sect that might roam the metropolis?

If this off the peg gear hits you in the right places and you have the dollar, this suiting could function. Silhouette and colour is all on their own right now. Hope hols going nicely Frida.

TS out.