LFW MENS FINALLY ENDS WITH A SHORT RUN
Alright you style zealots, let's get this LFW Mens thing finished off, as it was after all three weeks ago, and the reverberations are almost fading. Rake menswear, who we like, had a little soiree bash in the Hawtrey suite at Claridges. They were debuting Rake Lounge in the UK. (Mentioned this gear when doing Paris shows). They've upped the cut, finish and fabrication for this line, and it works. It's chic evening Rake, that's what it is. Try the stuff on and you find it to be convincing/fanciable sharp-lux tailoring with a knowing edge. Pert little cocktail affairs, particularly good in DB, and piped jackets with peak lapels are favourites. Perfect for the new 'Fractured-Evening' stance am gonna be banging on about, (not wearing the full evening look that is). Fabrics are dead good, will find out exactly what they're called. Rake had put together an amusing little vista of blokes affecting louche, playing backgammon and pretending to know each other. It was all red in the room and there was smoke (well, dry ice) wafting about. Him off the telly was a guest at the Hardy Amies show round the corner since they'd become such good pals (via me) . Thought it'd be good to get Dermot in to see Baroness Mingay and the boys from Rake as they do some of his tailoring. I took the liberty of diverting his chauffeured car sent by Amies via Claridges using the number that I got off the PR. I'd not factored in him being madly gregarious with all manner people, plus jokers (from Radio One and the like) engaging in endless banter. Could barely extract him, as the scheduled time for Hardy's show loomed and passed. The venue was in North Audley Street and was a converted Church. Prayer turned out to be in the equation.
When I did prise him out we jumped into the car only for it to embed itself in Mayfair evening gridlock. Twenty minutes to crawl round the block. We could easily have bowled it. It was no longer a bowling matter as we aborted the car plan and bailed on the wrong side of Grovesnor Square. We now broke into a light run in our best suits in the dark, twenty five minutes late for the big show. It was about 1/2k away. I'd sabotaged my own plan. "If we miss this, I'm blaming you" explained O'Leary, "and do you know why?" do go on, "because it's your fault". This was most uncomfortable, and definitely bad, bad style-butlering.
We made the entrance scrum in only the lightest of sweats, and after a Don Rouse (Amies' PR) man-squeeze (the tightest hug in fashion, bar none) were ushered into the FRow. The show promptly started. Never in any doubt, really. Nice church. Amen.
Now before anyone starts saying look, they've all got shorts on, imagine they don't have. It's a show thing, roll with it. Obviously almost no one would wear with shorts. Would they? Anyway, its all about the double breasted jackets, the cut, the fabrics, the colours and the styling. Right? Oh, and metallic shoes by Edward Green.
The jackets are just gorgeous. Big generous sweeping lapels, and strong shoulders, but somehow all fitted and wrap around. Fastening low, double suave. This was the best men's show at LFW. This'd be the thing to put up as best of international British men's fashion, fact.
Observe the dusty lilac/pewter jacquard fabric teamed with gold tassel loafers. Hardy would have been well proud, am certain. Amies raised it's own bar here. Smashing work Claire, keep it up. Everyones's watching. Hope to be wearing.
Derm' liked the blazers and the bags mainly, but we'll get him in those shorts if it kills us, right Don? Judges Houses next year I reckon. He's right, the light tailoring thing is gonna kick off, and it's all about a subtle hue and a texture. Mark our words. Think Italian furnishing fabrics from the Eighties and you're almost there.
Waiting for some post/pre show images, also some more of the Rake stuff, but only just asked for to be fair. That's pretty much it for LFW. Note I didnt put up all the shows that I thought were shite or pointless, so there is quite a lot you didn't see on S&E. That's sort of what am up to here you know. Trying to edit.
There's gonna be more suggestions, but they're gonna be subtle. I've got more news for you: Good men's style is subtle. A tweak here, a nuance there, and a tiny pair of shorts for the weekend is sometimes as mad as it gets.