BURBERRY PRORSUM AW 12/13
Not enjoyed or 'got’ a Burberry show for some time. They’ve been quite fashion-forward, or just plain odd. Saturdays was very different. A bit of ‘I will follow’ by U2 was heard while we settled in then Waterboys, The Jam and Nessun Dorma played by Jess/Jeff Beck as it went off*. The show was very much about tailoring. Every exit had a tie. There’s a clear message for ya. Christopher wants some resonant masculine symbolism in his world: Tailoring and ties.
It was overtly British. Fabrics were brilliant. Black and grey herringbones, birdseye wools, almost Donegal like tweeds. Colour knocked out in this section looked good, leaving it all about texture. The models had oversized not-so-flat caps, rounded slightly like helmets. They had mad umbrellas with rows of studs and duck head handles. The tailoring was very fitted, lots of double breasted and came up quite high. That’s gonna be a thing, that is. The overcoat was also important. Overcoats couldn't be more important all round, have you noticed?
Then a hunting outterwear story was worked through an urban view-finder with action ready waxed cotton coats, quilting and sort of poacher leathers. Jackets were fitted, loads of fastenings, quite street-almost agro, with really good bits hanging off them.
More ideas. These sort of cropped puffy ‘Clock House’ skiing jackets in tri-colour ways were really good. Good over suiting. Reminded me of wearing ski jackets over school uniform circa 1985. Much better coats though. Fuck Moncler wet look. These are dead good in subtle, matt colour ways.
Went to a re-see, (darling), and the stuff was really very good close up, and tons of it. Bailey piled on the ideas this time. It was my favourite show**. Big up your Brit-chest Mr.Christopher Bailey!
* Bailey always hurts it with his music.
** 'till Prada happened. Close second mind..