LFW MEN'S SHOWS AW 12/13-PART I
Morning style mentalists. Better post some stuff from Wednesday's shows before they're a distant memory. Should any of you be remotely bothered if I opted to wear a toggle spectacular (see Tuesdays post, click) or not, visit GQs review of show looks (click). Admit am glad to be not looking like a pillock on there. Shouldn't matter. Does though. Meanwhile, back in the realm of the young, MAN was the first show I saw that wanna tell you about.
AGI & SAM
MAN (click) is the program run by Fashion East and Topman that supports young talent and endeavours to get it up and running. From this I liked Agi&Sam (click) a great deal. No doubt some of you will say 'this is too silly, look at the mad clothes', but this how it works. Yes they're quite mental, but they're good too. We need mental or what would 'not mental' have to kick against. These young lot start of 'directional' (mental) and showing at MAN, then a couple of seasons later they're functioning with own shows and are selling to actual shops. Do try and bare that in mind (particularly you Messrs Ferragamo & Talent).
Oversized tartan and check tailoring and outer-wear in bold colour with narrow pants. Pretty straight forward, no? My favourite bit is orange tartan parka. Next. This is an edit naturally as dont want to bang on about all the shows. Christopher Shannon (click), whom I like, didn't get out of the starting blocks this time. Did plenty of stuff emblazoned with his name, plus some 'house check', but I failed to spot anything overtly street-fancy-able. Carded.
Topman Design is always pretty much on the money (unlike my image). It was all about the black or grey overcoat that you will be needing next Winter. They did faux-astrakan or fur versions for more flamboyant types and they did stark grey and black ones too. Really good. The suiting followed suit, black and grey. Really well executed. Note. All black accessories looking really strong: "Black is back, all in, we're gonna win", as Chuck D once kindly pointed out (click). Next.
GIEVES & HAWKES
Gieves & Hawkes did a static show in the Navy Board Rooms and it was very good indeed. Particularly striking were the shirts and ties. New designer Barry Tulip took inspiration from when Savile Row went a bit Groovy in The Sixties: The Beatles playing on the Roof of number 3, and Tommy Nutters sartorial style kicking off madly, the odd cutter smoking a dooby. You know the scene. His colour and graphics also referenced David Hicks and his 'Hull Trader'* artistic group.
This translated into vivid graphic ties and pocket squares suits with generous lapels, low notches and a high waist/fastening. Liked also the closed, pointed collars with tab fastenings not in white. Nice work Bazza. More of this Gieves collection at a later date.
PS. Next up is the Gandy Video Stance
*sounds like a Northern themed gay pub.