CHITTLEBOROUGH & MORGAN
Morning Bespoke Splinter-Cellers. Its all go. Did nine tailors on Tuesday and learnt quite a bit. Have seen seen a refined, willowy vest wearing fellow around The Row manor over the years. He is Joe Morgan out of Chittleborough & Morgan (click), and he is holding the hanger. The other fellow is not Chittleborough though. Chittleborough just retired. They both worked with Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton at Nutters, back in the day. These days they're downstairs at No.12.
I dont know loads about them, but I do like what I saw. The large, swooping lapels, low fastening and narrow waist make for distinctly elegant silhouette. They do a high pant with pleats too, almost venturing into Thin White Duke territory with that combo. Gonna use the dinner suit for next weeks event. This proportion looks smashing in pinstripe I note from their site. Liked what they were doing using grey flannel, windowpane check and matching pinstripe pants too, see below. They also do a fabric buttonhole range which are quite sweet. Not gonna write word 'boutonnière', because its for toss pots. What ever happened to that American bloke who used to walk about with a trilby on saying it the whole time? Jesus he was annoying. So glad he's disappeared.
Mr.Morgan also showed me a navy seersucker suit that's double stylish (click). For a full right up on C&M during various stages of the bespoke process, visit mateys 'Permanantly in a tailors fitting room' web site (click). In this episode even the cardboard patterns get to play a supporting role. Riveting stuff, but I've not got the time to post am afraid. If you have (click). The cut and thrust banter in the comments on that site is really something, like Newsnight for bespoke pundits.
Here's a query. Ever considered bespoke body shapes, or at least custom ones? Thinking about bespoke and mens approach to it as highest format of style. Granted, it's the loftiest level of menswear design in so many ways, and awfully effective for flattering and disguising mens forms. However, running trainers and a pull-up bar also have a very positive effect if used with a degree of comitment. See what I mean? Makes it all much easier for the tailors too, bless 'em. Went for fitting at Anderson&Sheppard. Mr.Hitchcock was on double buoyant form and it was special all round, but their fitting mirror makes me want to save up for a hair transplant. I look forward to a version with sleeves and trousers, call me old fashioned. I'd have taken some pictures, but to be honest, there's enough pictures of middle age men in half made suits about already. We really need to address all of this. Going for a run in lycra to think about it. Oh, and to think about the show next week, natch.