Morning Style Mongers. My Sharpener column out today in The FT How To Spendz It is on tank tops (click). Defo a valid FT reader thing- the edit we published, that is. Have a look, as there's some natty little fellas in the mix. Meanwhile, "Shame, shame, shame on you" the mob chanted in my face really loudly and with finger-pointy malice. For clarity, this wasn't a baying crowd of tank-top haters. No, though certain style shame is due to be fair. This was a moment from the Burberry show last month that was tank heavy, check laden and not without its share of agro-shouting. Some tanks that are quite contraversial, but not so much as fur.
Aside from my select of chic-wholesome knits and gillets (effectively modern knitted waistcoats), there are some that didn't make the FT cut. Notably from Guc' and Burbs'. Are they a little too ridiculous? Just too, too Frank Spencer*? Young fashion bods might be able wear them, so lets have a shufty. Largely cos this gives me a chance to talk about the Burberry show scene retrospectively (I mean, how else was I gonna do it. With Ouija board?).
Style question: Is the vaunted Creative Director at Gucci, Alessandro Michelle, actually having a bit of a laugh with some of his very expensive jacquard tanks? Will come to that, but check the young Frank-a-like above. Burberry was not a laughing matter for many however. Notably the enraged throng of anti-fur protestors outside the venue. I know a good way to approach Clerkenwell Green's Old Sessions Courthouse (click), so came in from the side/back, not the main street. "Shame, shame, shame on you" was the main chant theme as I came directly up through the protestors to the door men and locked armed stewards. No way through was possible due to barracades that formed a funnel that was the proscribed press/celeb entrance. Now said inflamed protest crew turned and belowed "Shame shame shame on you" in my face, really very agressively and with venom. It was lucky this was not a mine or dock worker picket line, as that would have been scary and I would have surely furred my pants. Regret not joining in the same chant, and will do so next time this happens.
Instead, I found this was exhilerating to experience for certain, though had to keep wits about me as dodged limply-brandished placards and was shown pictures of peeled dogs at very close proximatey to my face. Of course I did not condone dog peeling, or any of the other terrible skinless mammal horrors I explained when asked, and no, its not shameful of me attending this show. Explained was just dong my paid job reporting, and made way round through the shouty graduate mob to the much more friendly Burberry people brandishing ipads. Was good to see both sides- I would look up Burberrys fur policy later. Was a trifle disappointed no blood daubing or even egging going off. Is that not a thing any more? Things just arent the same.
The walls of the venue displayed all sorts of British style culture photography from thru the last 5 or so decades- Google it, it was good. Kate, Naomi, with Edward E in the middle were all sat nicely with their backs to the nasty crowd. The noise of the chanting was drowned out by high volume show sound track that began with a cover of Madness's My Girl by The Pet Show Boys. Christopher Bailey knows his music, so what the fuck was this? Really poor C.B,, One of the first singles I ever bought, that was- was only six of em back then, and now The P.S.Bs are murdering . Regardless, the tartan in the show was rather good, but the re-released vintage check less so. Vetements collab has sort of made the whole thing looks strange and quite schneid in itself. Odd effect. Was it a collab, before, or am I confused? (Conor to google that shit. Conor here, it was Gosha Rubchinskiy #poorconor). But now what people looked down on as Chav-pedastrian motif is donned by faye, chav swerving fashion bods- another layer of misapprop', right? We used to wear all the house checks, not at once. DAKS was/is my fav. Will dig out some evidence if it exists. Anyway, the tartan stuff looked much better, but can call that yourself.
Gonna put some more copy in here when had me dinner/brunch, so please bear with.
(Note. Got into this Bob Dylan song beow in September, and it seemed appropriate. Escaping a courtroom etc.) What was odd, was that the double angry mob outside were still spitting blood at the epicentre, taking names and pictures for suggested retribution, but 20 yards away everything was normal again- by rites, we evil supporters should have been hounded down and at the very least egged and battered a bit, no? As it was, it was borgeois business as usual just round the corner. Odd. Good for them for shouting and making a stand- I asked Burbs what they do with fur and they said they've not used it for years- when they do, they claim that is in very specifically licinced farms that are 'humane'. That is a human talking. Not so sure a panel of rabbits would call it the same though. Gonna re-read it, and see if rings true. Gucci just stepped away for using for at all yesterday, see Business Of Fashion (click). Oh yes. Michele's mad tank sign off!
This jacquar Gucci confection includes hand embroidery and possible some sparkly bits. Sort of Acid Geek-Chic with cartoon ref. A day glo-thrift shop story? Its about £1500. Surely this is something worth protesting about? Poor misappropriation of cartoon icons perhaps? Is this a bad time to ask about the idea of nice plush mink tank top?
Just a little taste of 70s British comedy 'legend' Frank Spencer in Some Mothers Do 'Ave 'Em. For those that 'avent seen 'im.